What Should You Check Before Buying a Plant?

It is easy to fall in love with a plant at the garden center.

The flowers are beautiful. The leaves look healthy. The plant is sitting neatly in a small pot, and you can already picture it beside the porch or underneath the living room window.

Then you get it home and discover that it needs more sun, better drainage, more space, or a great deal more water than you expected.

At Bobby & Lynn’s Plant Farm in Dallas, Georgia, we believe most expensive planting mistakes can be prevented before the plant ever leaves the nursery.

The prettiest plant is not always the best plant for your yard. The better choice is one that fits the sunlight, soil, moisture, available space, and amount of care you are prepared to provide.

Quick Answer

Before buying a plant, check:

1. How much summer sunlight the planting area receives
2. Whether the strongest light comes in the morning or afternoon
3. How the soil drains after rain
4. The plant’s mature height and width
5. Its cold-hardiness zone
6. Its watering needs
7. Whether nearby pavement or walls create extra heat
8. Whether deer commonly browse it
9. Whether it spreads aggressively
10. Whether the roots and foliage look healthy
11. Whether the plant fits beneath utilities or beside structures
12. Whether you want flowers, evergreen structure, wildlife value, or all three

Buy for the conditions the plant will live in—not for the size and appearance it has today.

Plant-Buying Checklist

1. Decide Where the Plant Will Go

Do not buy a plant first and walk around the yard later looking for somewhere to place it.

Choose the location before you shop.

Study:

• The available width
• The available height
• Sunlight
• Drainage
• Nearby roots
• Heat from walls or pavement
• Distance from the house
• Overhead and underground utilities
• How the plant will look with existing shrubs
• Whether the site can be watered

A plant bought without a planned location often ends up squeezed into the only open space.

That is how large shrubs wind up beneath windows, sun-loving plants wind up in shade, and moisture-sensitive plants wind up beside downspouts.

2. Measure Summer Sunlight

Sunlight is one of the most important things to check before buying a plant.

Plant labels commonly use these descriptions:

• Full sun
• Part sun
• Part shade
• Full shade

As a practical guide:

• Full sun usually means at least six hours of direct sunlight.
• Part sun or part shade usually means around three to six hours.
• Full shade means very little direct sunlight.

Those labels do not tell the whole story.

Four hours of gentle morning sun is different from four hours beside a west-facing brick wall during a Georgia summer.

Check the area several times

Observe the planting site around:

• 9:00 a.m.
• Noon
• 3:00 p.m.
• 5:00 p.m.

Repeat this during the growing season when nearby trees have leaves.

A bed that looks sunny in February may be heavily shaded by June.

3. Morning Sun and Afternoon Sun Are Different

Morning sunlight is cooler and usually gentler.

Afternoon sunlight is hotter, especially near brick, concrete, stone, gravel, or pavement.

Plants that often appreciate morning sun with afternoon shade include:

• Bigleaf hydrangeas
• Mountain hydrangeas
• Many azaleas
• Hostas
• Ferns
• Coral bells

Plants that generally flower best with stronger sunlight include:

• Panicle hydrangeas
• Rose of Sharon
• Butterfly bush
• Crape myrtle
• Spirea
• Weigela
• Coneflowers
• Black-eyed Susans

Do not rely only on the number of sunlight hours. Consider the intensity and timing too.

4. Check for Reflected Heat

A plant near a driveway or wall may experience much more heat than one growing in the open yard.

Heat can reflect from:

• Brick walls
• Stone walls
• Concrete driveways
• Sidewalks
• Gravel
• Decorative rock
• Metal fences
• Air-conditioning units

A west- or south-facing foundation bed can become especially stressful during summer.

Before choosing a plant, stand in the location late in the afternoon.

Notice whether the soil and surrounding surfaces feel much hotter than the rest of the yard.

Plants beside hot surfaces may need:

• Greater heat tolerance
• More frequent moisture checks
• Organic mulch
• Additional distance from the wall
• Afternoon shade

5. Check the Drainage

Most shrubs and perennials need soil that holds some moisture but still allows excess water to drain.

Before shopping, inspect the area after heavy rain.

Ask:

• Does water remain on the surface?
• Does a downspout empty nearby?
• Does water run into the bed from a driveway?
• Is the location at the bottom of a slope?
• Does the soil remain wet for several days?
• Does the area become extremely dry between rains?

A plant described as drought tolerant may still fail in wet clay.

A moisture-loving plant may struggle on a dry slope or beneath mature trees.

Simple drainage test

1. Dig a hole about 12 inches deep.
2. Fill it with water.
3. Allow the water to drain.
4. Fill it again.
5. Watch how quickly the second filling disappears.

Water that remains for a long period indicates that the area may need drainage work or a plant suited to wetter soil.

6. Know Your Soil

Georgia yards may contain:

• Heavy red clay
• Sandy soil
• Rocky soil
• Shallow soil
• Compacted construction soil
• Moist woodland soil
• Amended garden soil
• A mixture of several conditions

Clay can hold moisture and nutrients, but compacted clay may drain slowly and restrict roots.

Sandy soil drains quickly and may need more organic matter and more careful watering.

Rocky or shallow soil may be best suited to plants that tolerate dry, lean conditions.

Read Best Plants for Poor Soil Conditions in Georgia before choosing plants for clay, sand, rock, slopes, compacted soil, or wet ground.

7. Consider a Soil Test

A soil test can show:

• Soil pH
• Phosphorus levels
• Potassium levels
• Calcium and magnesium levels
• Whether lime is recommended
• Whether fertilizer is needed

Do not add lime simply because you have Georgia clay.

Hydrangeas, azaleas, gardenias, camellias, blueberries, and several native plants prefer acidic soil.

The UGA Extension soil-testing information can help homeowners understand what a test measures and how to collect a useful sample.

Test before applying products that may alter the soil for several years.

8. Check the Mature Height and Width

That small shrub in a one-gallon container may eventually become six, eight, or even twelve feet wide.

Always read the mature measurements.

Consider:

• Mature height
• Mature width
• Growth rate
• Natural shape
• Whether it forms suckers
• Whether branches arch outward
• How much pruning it will require

Plant according to mature size, not current size.

Leave room near structures

Allow enough distance from:

• Foundations
• Windows
• Doors
• Sidewalks
• Driveways
• Decks
• Fences
• Air-conditioning units
• Septic systems
• Utility boxes

A naturally large shrub should not be forced into a tiny foundation space and then cut back severely every year.

9. Look Up the Specific Cultivar

Different varieties of the same plant can mature at very different sizes.

For example, hydrangeas may range from compact plants only a few feet tall to large shrubs that become eight feet wide or more.

The same is true for:

• Crape myrtles
• Butterfly bushes
• Hollies
• Abelias
• Spireas
• Weigelas
• Rose of Sharon
• Viburnums

Do not rely only on the common plant name.

Write down or photograph the full cultivar name before buying.

A label that says only “hydrangea” does not provide enough information to plan the space properly.

10. Check the Cold-Hardiness Zone

A plant may look healthy at the nursery and still be poorly suited to your winter temperatures.

Check the hardiness range listed on the label.

Also consider:

• Sudden late freezes
• Wind exposure
• Low areas where cold air collects
• Containers that freeze faster than the ground
• Plants marketed as annuals versus perennials
• Marginally hardy plants that may suffer winter damage

A plant hardy only in warmer zones may survive one mild winter and fail during the next colder one.

11. Match the Plant to Your Watering Habits

Be honest about how much watering you are willing and able to do.

Some gardeners enjoy checking plants daily. Others need plants that can handle more independence once established.

Ask:

• Can the bed be reached with a hose?
• Is irrigation available?
• Will you be away frequently?
• Does the soil dry quickly?
• Are mature tree roots nearby?
• Does the plant need consistent moisture?
• Will several plants with different water needs be mixed together?

Drought tolerant does not mean a new plant can be ignored.

New shrubs and perennials need direct watering while their roots establish.

However, a moisture-loving plant in a naturally dry location may require ongoing care long after establishment.

12. Think Beyond the Flowers

A plant may bloom beautifully for two weeks and look ordinary for the rest of the year.

Before buying it, consider:

• Foliage color
• Fall color
• Winter structure
• Bark
• Berries
• Seed heads
• Evergreen leaves
• Plant shape
• Bloom duration
• Reblooming ability

A balanced landscape combines seasonal flowers with plants that provide structure and foliage.

That way, the bed still looks attractive after the flowers fade.

13. Decide What Job the Plant Needs to Do

Every plant should have a purpose.

You may need:

• A privacy screen
• A low foundation shrub
• A flowering focal point
• A pollinator plant
• An evergreen border
• A plant for erosion control
• A ground cover
• A small tree
• A container plant
• A shrub beneath a window
• A plant for wet soil
• A plant for dry shade

Knowing the purpose helps narrow the choices.

A beautiful flowering shrub may still be the wrong purchase if you need evergreen privacy during winter.

14. Check the Plant’s Bloom Time

A flowering plant may be in full bloom at the nursery because it was grown in a warmer location, greenhouse, or protected environment.

Its normal bloom time in your yard may be different.

Ask:

• When does it normally bloom in Georgia?
• How long does the bloom period last?
• Does it bloom once or rebloom?
• Does it flower on old wood or new wood?
• Will late frost damage the buds?
• Does it need a pollinator?
• Will the color complement nearby plants?

For hydrangeas, understanding whether the plant blooms on old wood or new wood also affects future pruning.

15. Check the Root System

The leaves may look beautiful while the roots tell a different story.

When possible, carefully slide the plant from its container and inspect the root ball.

Healthy container plants often have:

• Firm roots
• Light-colored feeder roots
• An earthy smell
• Roots that hold the soil together
• Some visible roots without a solid tangled mat

Warning signs include:

• Black or mushy roots
• A sour smell
• Severe circling roots
• A solid mat around the pot
• A completely dry root ball
• A loose plant with very few roots
• Thick roots wrapping around the trunk
• Roots growing heavily through drainage holes

A few circling roots can often be loosened before planting.

A severely root-bound shrub may have difficulty establishing and may require aggressive root correction.

The UGA Extension ornamental planting guide recommends inspecting container plants and looking for healthy tops and light-colored feeder roots.

16. Check the Leaves Closely

Look at the top and bottom of several leaves.

Watch for:

• Spots
• Holes
• Sticky residue
• Webbing
• White powder
• Scale insects
• Aphids
• Chewed edges
• Unusual yellowing
• Distorted new growth
• Blackened stems
• Premature leaf drop

A small amount of ordinary leaf damage does not always mean the plant is unhealthy.

However, widespread symptoms, active insects, severe spotting, or branch dieback may indicate a stressed plant.

Do not bring a preventable pest problem home with you.

17. Check the Stems and Branches

Choose plants with sturdy, well-spaced branches.

Avoid plants with:

• Broken stems
• Split trunks
• Severe rubbing branches
• Large wounds
• Mushy stem bases
• Extensive dieback
• Weak, stretched growth
• Bark damage around the base

Some shrubs naturally grow loosely or arch outward, so understand the plant’s normal shape before deciding it looks weak.

For a multi-stem shrub, look for balanced growth rather than one strong branch and several damaged ones.

18. Do Not Assume the Largest Plant Is Best

A larger plant may provide a faster visual result, but it is not automatically the best value.

Larger plants:

• Cost more
• Require larger planting holes
• Have heavier root balls
• May be more root-bound
• Need more water during establishment
• Can suffer more transplant stress

A healthy smaller plant may establish faster and catch up after a few growing seasons.

Compare root health, branching, cultivar, and condition—not only container size.

19. Check Whether the Plant Is Aggressive

Some plants spread through:

• Underground rhizomes
• Surface runners
• Seedlings
• Root suckers
• Stems that root when touching soil

Fast spreading may be helpful on a large slope.

It may be a problem in a small mixed flower bed.

Use caution with plants such as:

• English ivy
• Vinca
• Snow on the Mountain
• Spreading liriope
• Creeping Jenny
• Running mint
• Aggressive bamboo
• Some rapidly seeding perennials

Ask how the plant spreads and where it will stop.

Avoid aggressive plants near woods, streams, neighboring properties, or natural areas.

20. Ask Whether It Is Invasive in Georgia

An invasive plant can escape cultivation and compete with native vegetation.

A plant may still be sold commercially even when it has become problematic in some regions.

Before buying an unfamiliar spreader, check:

• UGA Extension guidance
• Georgia invasive-species resources
• The plant’s scientific name
• Whether it spreads by seed or underground roots
• Whether a sterile or better-behaved cultivar exists

Do not assume that every plant labeled “easy” or “fast growing” is a responsible choice.

21. Consider Deer and Rabbit Pressure

A deer-resistant label does not mean deer will never touch the plant.

Browsing depends on:

• Food availability
• Deer population
• Season
• Weather
• New tender growth
• Location
• Individual deer behavior

Plants commonly damaged by deer may include:

• Hostas
• Daylilies
• Hydrangeas
• Roses
• Certain hollies
• Tender perennials

Plants often described as less appealing may still be sampled.

In a yard with heavy deer pressure, plan for repellents, fencing, or more resistant choices.

22. Consider Pollinator and Wildlife Value

Plants can do more than decorate a bed.

They may provide:

• Nectar
• Pollen
• Seeds
• Berries
• Shelter
• Host foliage for caterpillars
• Winter cover

Native plants can be especially valuable when matched to the correct site.

However, native does not mean suitable for every yard.

A woodland native may fail in hot, dry sun. A plant adapted to rocky ground may rot in wet clay.

Choose native plants using the same right-plant, right-place standards used for every other plant.

23. Check Whether the Plant Needs a Pollinator

Some fruiting plants need another compatible plant nearby to produce berries or fruit.

Examples may include certain:

• Hollies
• Blueberries
• Viburnums
• Fruit trees
• Muscadines

Ask whether the plant is:

• Male
• Female
• Self-fertile
• Self-sterile
• Partially self-fertile
• Dependent on another cultivar

A female holly may flower without producing berries if no compatible male is nearby.

24. Know the Maintenance Requirements

Before buying, ask what the plant will need throughout the year.

Consider:

• Pruning
• Deadheading
• Dividing
• Staking
• Fertilizing
• Winter protection
• Pest monitoring
• Irrigation
• Cleanup
• Sucker removal
• Containment

A low-maintenance plant should fit the site naturally without constant correction.

A plant that must be pruned every month because it is too large for the space is not truly low maintenance.

25. Check the Pruning Requirements

Different shrubs should be pruned at different times.

Some flower on old wood. Others flower on new wood.

Pruning at the wrong time can remove an entire season of flowers.

Before buying a flowering shrub, ask:

• Does it bloom on old wood?
• Does it bloom on new wood?
• Does it rebloom?
• How large does it become without pruning?
• Will it need regular shaping?
• Can it recover from hard pruning?

Choose a naturally suitable size rather than depending on annual pruning to keep a large plant small.

26. Consider the Planting Season

Trees and shrubs generally establish more easily during cooler weather.

Fall is often an excellent planting season in Georgia because the soil remains warm enough for root growth while air temperatures become less stressful.

Spring can also be a good time.

Summer planting is possible, but new plants need closer moisture monitoring and protection from severe heat.

Avoid buying more plants than you can install and water properly.

A plant sitting in a small black nursery pot can dry quickly during hot weather.

27. Check the Nursery Label

A useful plant label should include:

• Common name
• Scientific name
• Cultivar
• Mature height
• Mature width
• Sunlight
• Hardiness zone
• Bloom time
• Flower color
• Water needs
• Basic care information

Photograph the label before leaving the nursery.

Keep the photo until the plant is established. It can help later with identification, pruning, mature size, and warranty questions.

28. Compare the Label With a Reliable Source

Labels are helpful, but they may simplify growing conditions or use national recommendations that are not specific to Georgia.

Confirm important details through:

• UGA Extension
• Your local Extension office
• Reliable botanical gardens
• Reputable nursery references
• Regional plant databases
• Our Plant Directory

Pay special attention to mature size, heat tolerance, moisture needs, and invasive behavior.

29. Questions to Ask Before Buying

Ask the nursery or seller:

• What is the exact cultivar?
• How large will it become?
• How much direct sunlight does it need?
• Can it tolerate hot afternoon sun?
• Does it handle Georgia clay?
• Does it need consistently moist soil?
• Is it drought tolerant after establishment?
• Does it spread?
• Is it deer resistant?
• Is it evergreen?
• When does it bloom?
• Does it bloom on old or new wood?
• Does it need another plant for pollination?
• Has it been overwintered outdoors?
• How long has it been in this container?
• Can I inspect the roots?
• What warranty or return policy applies?

A knowledgeable seller should be willing to help match the plant to the site.

What We Check at Our Plant Farm

At Bobby & Lynn’s Plant Farm, we do not look only at the flowers.

We consider the whole plant.

We look for:

• Healthy foliage
• Strong stems
• Active new growth
• A properly developed root system
• Reasonable moisture in the root ball
• Signs of pests or disease
• Whether the plant is becoming root-bound
• Whether the cultivar is correctly identified
• Whether the plant is ready to be sold

We also think about where the plant is going.

A beautiful hydrangea may still be a poor choice for a homeowner’s hot, dry west-facing bed. A butterfly bush may struggle in deep shade. A large Rose of Sharon may be completely wrong beneath a low window.

Sometimes the most helpful advice is not, “Yes, buy this one.”

Sometimes it is, “That plant is beautiful, but it will not be happy in the location you described.”

The goal is not simply to sell a plant. The goal is for the plant to still be growing well after it leaves.

Common Plant-Buying Mistakes

Buying only because the plant is blooming

Flowers are temporary. Sunlight, size, drainage, and growth habit matter for the plant’s entire life.

Planning according to the nursery-pot size

The plant may become several times wider and taller.

Trusting “full sun” without considering afternoon heat

A hot west-facing bed can be much harsher than open morning sun.

Ignoring drainage

A drought-tolerant plant may still rot in wet clay.

Choosing the largest plant

A smaller plant with healthier roots may establish more successfully.

Not inspecting the roots

The top may look healthy while the root system is severely bound or damaged.

Mixing plants with different water needs

Keeping lavender and moisture-loving hydrangeas happy in the same small bed can be difficult.

Depending on pruning to control size

Choose a cultivar that naturally fits the available space.

Buying without checking the scientific name

Several plants may share the same common name.

Assuming deer resistant means deer proof

Hungry deer may sample almost anything.

Buying more than you can plant

Plants left in small pots during summer can dry quickly and decline.

Before You Buy Another Plant Checklist

Before heading to the nursery, write down:

• Planting location
• Bed dimensions
• Distance from structures
• Summer sunlight hours
• Morning or afternoon exposure
• Soil type
• Drainage
• Wet or dry conditions
• Nearby tree roots
• Desired mature height
• Desired mature width
• Evergreen or deciduous preference
• Flower color
• Bloom season
• Pollinator value
• Deer pressure
• Watering availability
• Maintenance preference
• Hardiness zone
• Budget

At the nursery, check:

• Exact cultivar
• Mature size
• Root health
• Leaf condition
• Stem condition
• Pests
• Disease symptoms
• Moisture in the root ball
• Spreading habit
• Warranty and care instructions

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most important thing to know before buying a plant?

Know where it will be planted.

Sunlight, drainage, soil moisture, available space, and mature size should guide the purchase.

How can I tell whether a plant is healthy?

Look for healthy foliage, strong stems, active growth, and firm light-colored roots.

Avoid severe pest damage, rotten roots, major dieback, or a completely dry root ball.

Is a root-bound plant always bad?

Mild circling can often be corrected during planting.

A severely root-bound plant with large woody roots wrapped around the trunk may struggle to establish.

Should I buy the plant with the most flowers?

Not necessarily.

Heavy flowering can make a plant attractive, but root health, cultivar, branching, and site suitability matter more over the long term.

Is a larger plant worth the extra money?

Sometimes, but not always.

A smaller healthy plant may be easier to plant, experience less transplant stress, and establish faster.

How do I know whether my yard has full sun?

Track direct sunlight during the growing season.

Full sun usually means at least six hours, but afternoon intensity and reflected heat also matter.

Can I plant a full-sun plant in partial shade?

It may survive, but flowering and growth may be reduced.

Choose according to the plant’s requirements and your expectations.

What shrubs are best beneath windows?

Choose compact cultivars that remain below the window without constant pruning.

Always check both mature height and width.

What should I check on a plant label?

Check the cultivar, mature size, sunlight, hardiness zone, moisture needs, bloom time, and growth habit.

Can I plant in Georgia clay?

Yes.

Many shrubs grow well in clay when drainage is adequate and the plant is installed correctly.

Avoid plants that require sharply drained soil in areas that remain wet.

Should I amend the planting hole with potting soil?

For individual trees and shrubs, use mainly the original soil for backfilling.

A small pocket of soft soil surrounded by hard clay can interfere with drainage and outward root growth.

How soon should I plant after buying?

As soon as reasonably possible.

Until planting, keep the root ball watered and protect the container from extreme heat.

Is fall a good time to buy shrubs in Georgia?

Yes.

Fall is often one of the best times to plant shrubs because cooler air reduces stress while the soil remains warm enough for root growth.

Should I avoid discounted plants?

Not automatically.

Inspect them carefully. A healthy plant may be discounted for seasonal reasons, but a severely dried, diseased, damaged, or root-bound plant may not be a bargain.

What to Do Next

Before buying another plant, begin with the location.

Measure the space. Track the summer sunlight. Check drainage after rain. Notice nearby pavement, walls, roots, downspouts, and utilities.

Decide what job the plant needs to perform.

Then compare plants according to mature size, water needs, hardiness, growth habit, maintenance, wildlife value, and seasonal appearance.

At the nursery, inspect the leaves, stems, and roots. Confirm the exact cultivar and photograph the label.

Do not buy only for today’s flowers or the size of the nursery pot.

The best plant purchase is one that fits the yard when fully grown and remains healthy without years of correction.

Read How to Plant Flowering Shrubs for Best Results before installing your new plant.

You can also read Why Are Plants Struggling in One Part of Your Yard? to check drainage, planting depth, reflected heat, root competition, and other site problems.

Browse our Plant Directory to compare sunlight, mature size, bloom color, soil moisture, pruning time, and care needs.