The first thing we check is the type of hydrangea. Some hydrangeas bloom on old wood, which means their flower buds were formed the year before. Pruning at the wrong time or a late freeze can remove those buds.

Panicle and smooth hydrangeas usually bloom on new growth. Sunlight, fertilizer, plant age, transplant stress, and pruning history can also affect flowering.

Our hydrangea help rule: identify the type before you start cutting.

Bigleaf and oakleaf hydrangeas commonly bloom on old wood. Panicle and smooth hydrangeas normally bloom on new wood.

Knowing which type you have is one of the most important parts of hydrangea care because it tells you when pruning is safe.

Yes. We’ve seen this happen when warm weather starts buds growing and then a late freeze arrives. The plant may still grow plenty of healthy leaves, but damaged flower buds can mean few or no blooms.

Old wood hydrangeas are especially vulnerable because their flower buds may already be sitting on the stems.

Yes, but the right amount depends on the type and climate. Many bigleaf hydrangeas do well with morning sun and afternoon shade, while panicle hydrangeas usually tolerate more direct sun.

Too much shade can give you a healthy green plant with very few flowers.

It depends on the hydrangea. Panicle and smooth hydrangeas bloom on new wood and are usually pruned in late winter or early spring.

Many bigleaf and oakleaf hydrangeas bloom on old wood. Pruning those in fall, winter, or early spring can remove the flower buds.

Usually, no. We leave most of our hydrangeas alone in fall.

That’s especially important for varieties that bloom on old wood because next year’s buds may already be on the stems. If you’re not sure what type you have, waiting is safer than guessing.

Yes. Removing an old flower is deadheading, and that’s different from heavily pruning the plant.

On old wood hydrangeas, don’t cut far down the stem. Next year’s flower buds may already be developing below the spent bloom.

Some hydrangeas tolerate hard pruning much better than others. Smooth hydrangeas such as Annabelle can take a hard cutback, and many panicle hydrangeas respond well to pruning.

Cutting an old wood hydrangea to the ground can cost you a season of flowers.

Brown leaves can come from heat, harsh afternoon sun, dry soil, transplant stress, fertilizer burn, disease, or normal late season changes.

We look at the whole plant before deciding something is seriously wrong. A few brown edges during a hot summer can simply be heat stress.

Leaf spots are common on hydrangeas, especially later in the season during warm, humid weather.

Try to keep leaves dry when watering, improve airflow, and clean up badly affected leaves after they fall.

You don’t have to strip every spotted leaf from the plant. We usually remove badly damaged leaves and clean up diseased leaves after they fall.

That helps reduce the amount of diseased plant material sitting around the hydrangea through winter.

Hydrangeas can wilt during hot afternoons even when the soil still contains moisture.

Check the soil before watering again. If the plant perks back up in the evening or early morning, heat may be the main cause. If it stays wilted overnight, it may truly need water.

There isn’t one watering schedule that works everywhere. Check the soil instead of watering automatically every day.

Newly planted hydrangeas need closer attention while they establish. Deep watering is usually better than giving the plant a tiny drink every day.

Yes. Hydrangeas like moisture, but they don’t like staying in soggy soil. Constantly wet roots can lead to root problems and wilting.

Water slowly and deeply around the root zone. We prefer getting the water to the soil and roots instead of constantly wetting the foliage.

Drip irrigation or a slow hose works well, and mulch helps the soil hold moisture during hot weather.

It depends on the hydrangea. Bigleaf hydrangeas often prefer morning sun and protection from intense afternoon heat.

Panicle hydrangeas generally tolerate more sun. Climate matters too. Six hours of sun in a northern garden can be very different from six hours of Georgia summer sun.

They may survive in heavy shade, but flowering usually suffers.

If your plant has plenty of healthy leaves but very few flowers, lack of sunlight is worth checking.

Some can. Panicle hydrangeas are among our favorite choices for sunnier spots.

Even sun tolerant hydrangeas may need extra water during periods of extreme heat, especially while they’re getting established.

Spring is usually the best time to fertilize hydrangeas if they need it. We don’t like pushing tender new growth late in the growing season.

We normally don’t. Fall fertilizer can encourage tender new growth at the wrong time of year.

As winter gets closer, we want the plant slowing down and preparing for dormancy.

It can. Too much nitrogen can produce a big green plant with lots of leaves and very few flowers.

When it comes to hydrangea care, more fertilizer isn’t always better.

We prefer moving hydrangeas while they’re dormant. Here in Georgia, January or February works well for us.

The plant isn’t trying to support a full canopy of leaves while adjusting to being moved. In colder regions, timing will depend on when the ground can be worked.

Yes, although the larger the plant, the harder the job becomes.

Dig as much of the root system as you reasonably can, have the new hole ready, replant promptly, and keep an eye on soil moisture afterward.

Spacing depends on the mature size of the variety.

One of the easiest mistakes to make is planting small nursery plants too close together because they look tiny when you buy them. Check mature width before planting.

Newly planted hydrangeas may spend more energy building roots than stems and leaves.

Poor soil, shade, too much or too little water, transplant shock, root problems, and competition from nearby plants can also slow growth.

Try a scratch test. Lightly scratch a tiny area of bark with your fingernail or a clean tool.

Green tissue underneath usually means the stem is alive. Brown, dry tissue can mean that section is dead. Test farther down before removing the whole stem.

Transplant shock is common during the first growing season. The plant is trying to establish roots while also dealing with sun, heat, wind, and water needs.

Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy, maintain mulch around the root zone, and give the plant time to settle in.

Fall hydrangea care is mostly about helping the plant prepare for winter.

Avoid unnecessary pruning and late fertilizer. Keep watering during dry spells, clean up diseased fallen leaves, and maintain mulch around the roots.

Healthy leaves can usually be handled like other garden leaves.

If the plant had a significant leaf spot problem, we prefer removing those diseased leaves from around the plant instead of leaving them there all winter.

That depends on the variety and climate. Hydrangeas growing near the colder edge of their hardiness range may benefit from additional protection.

For old wood bloomers, protecting stems and buds may help preserve the following year’s flowers.